Seaside Getaway in Portsmouth, NH

Everyone needs a great weekend away once in a while and you can look no further than this Seaside Weekend Getaway in Portsmouth, NH and a drive along New Hampshires coast. Portsmouth is a beautiful city along the coast of New Hampshire just across the river from Kittery Maine. Portsmouth has a rich history as New Hampshire’s oldest settlement and now boasts a nationally acclaimed arts and culture scene as well as being a “foodie” town. 

Getting to Portsmouth NH

The most economical airport to fly into is Logan Airport in Boston Massachusetts. Being such a large airport, Logan Airport usually has more reasonable airline tickets and all the major car rental agencies are available right from the airport. Portsmouth, New Hampshire is about an hour’s drive north on interstate 95. The drive is very straightforward but there is one toll on I95.

Where to Stay in Portsmouth NH?

Portsmouth has quite a few hotels and Inns downtown and a few more affordable hotels just outside of town. We stayed at the wonderful Courtyard by Marriott just outside of town and found it to be extremely comfortable and within our budget. We shopped around using our favorite mystery hotel app, Priceline and were very pleased with our stay. If you are interested in staying within walking distance from the shops and restaurants, the Residence Inn by Marriott, Hilton Garden Inn, the Sheraton and Hampton Inn & Suites are reputable accommodations downtown. If you prefer a more intimate stay, the Inn Downtown, Hotel Thaxter or the Ale House Inn are more boutique hotels in the center of town. 

 Downtown Portsmouth NH:

Portsmouth, NH

There is a wonderful collection of culinary offerings in Portsmouth NH. With over one hundred restaurants, breweries and pubs in Portsmouth there is something for everyone. The downtown area is perfect for experiencing different cuisine as well as shopping in between. We enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the downtown area and found the architecture incredibly well preserved and beautifully maintained thanks to Portsmouth’s Historic District Commission. Portsmouth’s historic sites include nine notable houses and two restored ships. The most popular site is Strawberry Banke Museum, a 10-acre restoration of historic houses and shops dating from 1695 to the 1950s on the original site.

The USS Albacore:

One of the historic sites of Portsmouth NH is actually a submarine. The USS Albacore was a pioneering submarine which was used to test a variety of top secret features that have been improved upon to achieve the silent and high-speed operation of the modern day US submarines. The USS Albacore was built across the river in Kittey at the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard and served in her testing capacity from 1953 to 1972. The USS Albacore is now a museum and open to the public, located at 569 Submarine Way in Portsmouth. Explore the history of this great test submarine who at one point in time set a record as the world’s fastest submarine, with a speed of 40 miles per hour!

Portsmouth, NH
Memorial Bridge

After exploring downtown Portsmouth NH and the USS Albacore we were looking for some alfresco adventure so we decided to cross the river over to Kittery Maine, home to the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard where the USS Albacore was built. We drove along US Route 1 over the ornate vertical-lift Memorial Bridge into Kittery, Maine. At the first intersection then took a right to stay along the coast and connect with the scenic route 103 South. Route 103 winds along the coast through quite a few neighborhoods ranging from upscale homes to modest fishing shacks. Portsmouth Harbor and the Piscataqua River views are incredibly picturesque and as promised, scenic.

Fort McClary State Historic Site:

Fort McClary

We came across Fort McClary State Historic Site on our leisurely drive down route 103. Since we were visiting during the off season there was no one around and we had the whole site to explore alone. Parking outside the gate was permitted so we took the short walk up to the site where a fort has stood for over 275 years. The current incarnation of the fort is a renovated block house surrounded on the harbor side by tall sea walls offering a fantastic view over to the Portsmouth Harbor Light, Whaleback Lighthouse, Wood Island Life Saving Station and out to sea.

Caponier at Fort McClary

 

 

Caponier Entrance at Fort McClary

 

 

 

 

 

 

We explored the underground Caponier at Fort McClary, equipped with musket ports for defense and protection of the seaward approach to the harbor of Portsmouth NH. A Caponier is a type of underground defensive structure that gives protected access to the outworks of a fortification. It was a little eerie going underground but well worth a look. Fort McClary was manned during five wars but saw little conflict and is now owned and operated by the State of Maine as Fort McClary State Historic Site. This site is perfect for a summer picnic and the grounds are accessible and easy to get to.

Fort Foster:

Whaleback Lighthouse & Wood Island Life Saving Station

We continued south along the coast and diverted off of Route 103 onto Pocahontas Rd to visit Fort Foster at the northern part of the mouth of the Piscataqua River. When we arrived at Fort Foster we were met by the up-close view of Whaleback Lighthouse and the Wood Island Life Saving Station. Fort Foster offers a section of fort ruins, beautiful ocean views and three small sandy beaches. There are also some well maintained hiking and walking loops with picturesque picnic spots along the way. We enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the wide gravel path along the ocean side of the park. This trail is very accessible and is a level easy walk. 

After our walk, we wandered along the pebbled beach near the pier at Fort Foster. We noticed a tugboat towing a large barge entering the mouth of the Piscataqua River. It was an extremely windy day and the tugboat was approaching the mouth of the river so it needed to shorten its towing cables. The tug boat would need to come up alongside the barge to navigate into Portsmouth Harbor safely. In such windy conditions it took the tugboat two attempts to reattach to the barge and get going again. It was quite an undertaking for the tugboat with a fully loaded barge. We enjoyed watching the maritime maneuvers as long as we could but the sun was getting low and we decided that we should make our way back into town to freshen up at the hotel and decide what delicious spot we would choose for dinner. Vacationing along the coast in New England is always a great opportunity to enjoy the fresh seafood.

Pierce Island:

View from Pierce Island

The next morning we were up early and picked up breakfast and coffee to-go so we could carry on with our adventure south this time to explore the southern side of Portsmouth Harbor and the island of New Castle before making our way farther south along New Hampshires stunning coastline. Our first stop to have our breakfast picnic was Pierce Island. Pierce Island provides the best view across the river to the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard in Kittery as well as meandering walking paths, a playground and a boat launch. We wandered a little bit and enjoyed our breakfast while taking in the view and even got to see the vertical-lift Memorial Bridge over the river in action. 

Portsmouth Harbor Light:

Portsmouth Harbor Light

After breakfast and a lovely walk around Pierce Island we made our way south onto Route 1B towards the island of New Castle. Along the way we got to see the ominous and mysterious Portsmouth Naval Prison. This massive, castle like structure is located on restricted federal land connected to the Portsmouth Navel Ship Yard across the river in Maine. Once we arrived in New Castle Island we stopped to see the Portsmouth Harbor Light. Unfortunately, up close viewing of the lighthouse from the Coast Guard Station is only open to the public during the summer months so we ventured a little farther down the coast to get a great view of the harbor light from Great Island Common. The Great Island Common is a beautiful wide open park offering picnic spots with grills and one of the best views of the mouth of Portsmouth Harbor and the light houses marking its entrance. 

Great Island Common

Fort Stark State Historic Site:

Fort Stark State Historic Site

After taking in the view and sea air at Great Island Common we detoured down to explore Fort Stark State Historic Site. Fort Stark sits at the southeastern point of New Castle and is a 10 acre site for exploration at your own risk! Be aware of slippery rocks, high walls and unprotected stairs as you traverse this site. Use caution but do not let that deter you from enjoying the stunning scenery from the top of the earthen wall and viewing the southern coast from the breakwater. Fort Stark is a formal military installation with most of the buildings still intact. Many of the buildings are marred by graffiti but you can still see the beauty of this strategic location. We recommend downloading this self guided walking guide to enhance your experience touring Fort Stark.

Wentworth by the Sea:

Route 1B continues south along the coast and winds through beautiful neighborhoods with very impressive homes. One of the most impressive buildings on the island of New Castle is Wentworth by the Sea Hotel and Spa. Wentworth by the Sea is one of the top luxury hotels in New Hampshire. It is a gilded age grand hotel and was built in the 1870’s and now offers its guests 21st century elegant rooms, spa services and fine dining. There is a country club just over the quaint bridge onto the mainland. 

Odiorne Point State Park:

We arrived at the junction of 1B and 1A just beyond the Wentworth by the Sea Country Club and turned onto 1A South back towards the coast. The next sea view is visible at Odiorne Point State Park. Odiorne Point State Park is an expansive park that stuns visitors with panoramic ocean views from its rocky shoreline. There are picnic areas and a playground provided as well as an extensive network of trails to explore. The park is also home to the Seacoast Science Center. The Seacoast Science Center offers an array of science based educational programs with emphasis on understanding the connection between people, our local habitat, and the world at large. At the Seacoast Science Center guests have a rare opportunity to experience first-hand the earth’s many different ocean and coastal environments including sandy beaches, rocky shores, tidal estuaries, diverse freshwater habitats, and woodlands. There is a small fee charged for the science center and the state park but it is well worth your visit.

Hampton Beach:

As our adventure was coming to an end we continued south to the Massachusetts border along the scenic coastline of route 1A. We passed through beautiful beach towns with towering beach houses and private homes. We enjoyed the view of the Atlantic Ocean on a pristine day filled with sunshine and sea air galore!

We finished our weekend getaway by taking a tour of Hampton Beach. Hampton beach is a premier vacation spot along the New Hampshire coast full of beach houses and fun in the sun. It is known for its lively nightlife as well as its boardwalk, restaurants, ice cream shops and most of all the beach. There is also a fantastic beachfront state park at the south end of the barrier island providing year round recreation, swimming, fishing and camping. 

There are so many beautiful places to visit around Portsmouth NH but we could only see a few gems during our weekend getaway. We will continue to explore and we look forward to sharing our adventures with you. 

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